Kjalvegur
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4,5 sur 5 bulles9 avis
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Anna G
Bergheim, Allemagne1 353 contributions
4,0 sur 5 bulles
août 2018 • En couple
Früher u.U. wegen erforderlicher Furten ein Problem, heute dank überbrückter Flüsse mit hochlandtauglichen PKW gut zu befahren (aber Mietbedingungen beachten). Seitenwege wie z.B. die F336 nach Skalpanes (Langjökull) oder die F347 zum Kerlingarfjöll sind lohnende Ausflüge, aber für Mietwagen nur in bestimmten Kategorien erlaubt. Abstecher zum Hveravellir sind eine weitere Option.
Écrit le 8 septembre 2018
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Nat L
Berlin, Allemagne60 contributions
5,0 sur 5 bulles
juil. 2016 • En famille
After arriving in Kerlingarfjoll, my son and I decided to walk to the biggest geothermal fields in Iceland. A young girl at the reception of our mountain hut told us it was very beautiful, very safe, the weather would definitely stay as it is (cloudy but warm and no overcast) and that we could easily make it in 4h so if we started at 4pm we would be OK... I am a pretty experienced hiker so I asked her 3 times about the weather, if it was very steep, what time it would get dark and of course just in case I took the telephone number of our mountain refuge. And she did mention that if we took the wrong direction, which was possible, we would have to cross a stream so we needed to take a towel to dry our feet, which I duly did. After 2h of walking in decent weather conditions and temperatures we reached the geothermal fields but as soon as we started to make a loop it started hailing, then raining, temperatures dropped to at least zero and the muddy soil become so slippery that it became impossible to walk on it without sliding down onto really steep slopes. We decided to cut our trip short and head towards a parking, which we could see 2 or so miles ahead. Well, after 15 minutes of walking we had to give up as the narrow path was so slippery that one tiny error and we would roll down to the thermal springs where we would become hard boiled humans. It was still hailing and raining and so windy that we hardly could stand on the ridge of the mountain. We could see wooden steps about 300 meters in front of us but we knew that we would not make it with our shoes full of slippery clay, without poles and in this weather. So I decided to call the hostel for a rescue operation. When I got my phone out it showed ‘no service’. Great. We sat down and started to scream for help ...to no avail as no one could hear from this distance. After 15 minutes (we could not go back as it was far too steep) of waiting and trying to work out the best plan for saving our lives, we noticed two late hikers coming down. What a relief it was. They had poles and they shared their poles with us so slowly and carefully we managed to get to the wooden stairs. Well, following our precarious walk we got to the river (stream?) and had to somehow cross the raising waters if we wanted to get out of the loop. Having no clue how deep it was, Sven, our saviour carefully crossed the river checking its depth with his stick. OK so it was my turn to throw my boots to the other side. But my hands were so frozen that I could not predict where my boot would land. Of course, it landed in the middle of the rapid river and swiftly drifted away. My saviour Sven however has not only saved us but he also saved my soaked shoe. What a relief... or.... maybe if I had lost my boot at least I could have had a sort of excuse to call for a rescue team. Now I had to carry on, cross the river with my 10year old and walk another 7 km absolutely soaked. When we managed to cross the ‘stream’ my poor child burst into tears but I am not surprised because I wanted to do it myself straight from the beginning of this Indiana Jones adventure. Finally we reached the parking and walked and walked and walked.... The moral is: first, never listen to young inexperienced mountain hut receptionists and second, don’t leave your home without Nordic walking sticks. Now I know why they are called Nordic walking...
Écrit le 28 août 2016
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Trek-Always
Alpharetta, Géorgie2 525 contributions
5,0 sur 5 bulles
juil. 2016 • Entre amis
Things that may be helpful: 1) This is a "road" and not really a trail; 2) Much of it is compacted dirt that is very rough in places; 3) There is at least one place that crosses a stream; 4) The country has rated this as a 4-wheel drive road -- probably for good reason; 5) It is marked F35 most of the way.

Wonderful experience. It is shorter to go from coast to coast on this road, but perhaps not less time. We drove it in a 30 person mini-bus with a local driver and guide. On a rainy day or in winter it could certainly be more dangerous. There are zero services along the route.

When you have the option to turn to drive to Hveravellir it is worth the side trip. This is an enticing geothermal area with fumaroles, hot pools, camping, a restaurant, facilities, and one place to take a hot pool bath (with no changing area).

Wonderful use of a day. Very stark but very pretty.

If this review is helpful then please indicate so below.
Écrit le 2 août 2016
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Gwen V
Hewitt, NJ413 contributions
5,0 sur 5 bulles
juil. 2014 • En couple
We drove from the North to the South on this amazing road...on a cloudy and rainy day. The endless sky, the monotone colors...were BEAUTIFUL. Hard to explain but to be out there in the middle of Iceland and see the sheer expanse of nothing, it was an unforgettable experience. After a few kilometers, I started to see that it wasn't all the same. Shapes, colors, textures..and then the never-ending bumpy road were all part of it. I would recommend it to all who have the proper vehicle and a sense of adventure.
Écrit le 30 août 2014
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Marcus_Fenix1
Dresde, Allemagne12 377 contributions
5,0 sur 5 bulles
Von Nord nach Süd Haben wir die Kjölurpiste genommen um in den Goldenen Zirkel zu fahren. Dank unseres Superjeeps (Landrover Defender 37" Räder) waren die Schlaglöcher und so manche 20cm Wasserdurchfahrt kein Problem. Ein Zwischenstopp in einem kleinen Örtchen (Hveravellir) mit Hot Pod und Schefellöchern war noch ein geologisches Highlight + Geschichtskunde zum "Geächteten". Sicherlich braucht man auch gute Sicht , um die umliegenden Berge, den weißen See, die Gletscherzungen und den Stausee zu sehen. Mit dem eigenen Auto (außer Jeep) ist die Piste aber grenzwertig. Zwar freigegeben, wird sie aber im südlichen Teil sehr ruppig mit den Stoßdämpfern und den Federn umgehen. Und über jedes Schlagloch möchte man sein Auto ja nicht tragen, da sonst ein Tag nicht reicht!
Hinweis: Superjeep Fahrer können im südlichen Teil den kleinen "Umweg" über eine Nebenpiste nehmen (verläuft parallel zu Kjölur, aber näher am Gletschersee vorbei). Die macht Spaß, da es eine 40cm Furt gibt (Juli). Je nach Wasserstand kann's auch mehr werden. Eine Ausschilderung ist nur von Süden. Von Norden die kleine Abzweigung vor der Hvitarvatn-Hütte rechts nehmen und nach 300m steht man vor dem Fluss.
Écrit le 29 juillet 2014
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Jan Olav G
Kristiansand, Norvège123 contributions
4,0 sur 5 bulles
sept. 2013 • En solo
Mere enn 150 Km med dårlig vei. Gjennomsnittsfart 30 Km/t. Ikke for vanlig personbil, men bruk en 4x4. Midt på veien finner du Hveravellir med masse varme kilder. Veien går også mellom to isbreer. Anbefales om du er eventyrlysten.
Écrit le 6 septembre 2013
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Aussiegrannie
Adelaïde, Australie1 074 contributions
5,0 sur 5 bulles
août 2013 • En solo
During my recent trip to Iceland I travelled with Árni a private guide, with whom I had travelled previously We/he drove the highland routes of 'Sprengisandur, from the South of Iceland to the North to Akureyri, across the top and down Kjölur.

This was an amazing experience. Árni a charming Icelandic man picked me up at the Guesthouse Aurora, and we began our journey. I had been staying in Iceland for about a week before this, writing, and I was ready to get out in the interior of Iceland and experience the remoteness of the place.

I was a bit surprised when Árni drove up. I had thought we would be needing something big to travel this route, but I was told what we were taking was more than adequate for the job, and further that a modified jeep would have been much to difficult on me, and would drive me insane, getting in and out of it. I took his word - after all he is the driver and the professional, but still I wondered. Just as well I trust him.

Starting late afternoon we drove South to Vik, where we stayed at the Hotel Volcano. This was a lovely place, clean neat, and quiet. They have used all natural materials on the floor, and in the bathrooms. In places it is wearing, and needs a really good steam clean to get of the what I have thought might be calcium residue. But is is clean, and no issue for me.

We did not eat here, opting for a place in town, where we had also been on a previous journey together. I think it was called (but I can not find it) Halendismiðöin. Whatever it was called it is a great place, and offers a wide range of foods, It is always very busy, and well patronised.

In the evening I was not ready for bed, and I said I was going outside for awhile. Árni came with me, and we sat outside for a bit. While we were there, there was a large bird flying around, and doing what I would describe as 'drive bombing' us. Árni was up on his feet in a flash, telling me it was an owl, and not just any owl, a special one, but again it all happened so fast I did not write it down, and I have forgotten it. But Árni was so excited. I wondered if not only excited he may have been a little concerned. He told me how rare this was, that hardly ever are these owls seen, and certainly not so close. The bird was flying right low down on us. It was so wonderful.

The next morning we did some shopping for food. There is nowhere to buy anything once we start along the tracks. We would be having picnics, and picnics with Árni are always fun.:-)

Breakfast at the Hotel was really good, perhaps one of the best around I have had. There were waffles, the usual warm breads, cucumber, and freshly cooked eggs, ham cheese, and sausage, tea juices, and coffee.

After we headed for Landmannalaugar. This place is so beautiful.The road took us through the rough road, and rivers and glaciers. I had been here previously and it was so interesting to come for the second time and with a different guide. The place is truly unique, and the mountains look like they have been painted. I received a lesson in geology. I am sure I got one also the first time, but this time it was just the two of us. So it was different, and I think more special. The day was wet and cold, the place very busy. Camping here is the name of the game, and tents were everywhere. People were trying to find a place out of the rain to eat, as were we.

There is hot pool and it was well patronised, but the die-hards. This is not a past time for me, it is far too cold. I think it was for most of the others, they looked freezing, and were standing around shivering. I don't understand, but they do, and I guess that is all that is necessary.

After our time here it was onto to Leirubakki Hotel at Hella for the night. This Hotel stands right under the Volcano Hekla, which looms high above, and shrouded in mist and mystery. It is said my guide told me that it is the 'gateway to Hell,' however it is very beautiful, and if this story is true, then I will plan on going to hell, just for its beauty.

Food here is very expensive, and neither Árni or myself felt inclined to be caught up in being a captive audience. We did eat here the first night, and opted for Soup and Breads

This area of Iceland is quite remote, and it is beautiful. I went walking in the morning before I met up with Árni for breakfast. The grounds are so lovely, and Hekla shrouded by mist, fog, and cloud. Árni explained the meaning of Hekla as that of a scarfe without sleeves, or something of the like. It looks like the mountain has something over it all the time, and I have never seen the top. It seems that each time I have been in Iceland it has been covered in cloud or covering.

The Hotel is interesting, the woman and her family bought the property some time ago. She did tell me how big it was, but I have forgotten. It was once owned by The famous Snorri Sturlusan, and the Hotel has produced a sheet on the historical side of the property. It is basically a farm. We stayed 2 nights here, prior to travelling the Sprengisandur.

The Hekla Exhibition Centre is also located on the complex, and it was quite interesting. There are applicable charges, and it is not cheap. it is quite interesting particularly the live on-line seismic monitoring device in the centre. It was showing a variation in the printout. Naturally I could not interpret what it was indicating, and neither could my guide. I almost hoped that something might be going to happen. How exciting that might have been,.

But back to the day. We started the day driving around the area, and ended up at a big lake in the middle,called Veiðovotn. This magnificent lake is a popular fishing spot, but not today, and the huts were not open. The warden was on site, and Árni and he spoke. I wanted a toilet, and the warden kindly allowed us to have access to a cabin. This was so nice it had a toilet, and we had our lunch in the hut. It was quite cosy, with sleeping room for six in the hut. There was a table and stools.It is BYO sleeping bags, and food. I offered the warden money to pay for the use of the cabin, but he waved me off, refusing to take it. I would have rather paid for the priviledge, but he would not take my offering. So I just had to leave it, and enjoy the time. We spent a little time there, eating our lunch and just enjoying the remoteness.

All the way along I was receiving my education about power plants, reservoir lakes, dams, and the Hydroelectric activities.

In all honesty I did not feel the roads were all that bad, but I could see they were taking a toll on Arni, and I felt sorry about that.

Then we began the long rough drive. The roads were rough, and heavily rutted. Árni describes as 'washboard' I interpreted 'ball bearing' they were so bad, and it is not an easy ride. Poor Árni he had to drive, I felt sorry for him, it could not have been easy driving. The rivers we crossed were glacial, and some parts were quite deep, but our Suzuki Vitara met each challenge like Árni said it would. Naturally he was right, but then - he always is.:-) - apparently. It is true to say I was never concerned, I knew he was competent, and I had complete confidence in him. I had travelled with him previously, and with his hands on the wheel I knew I was completely safe, and I was not at all worried.
Some of the rivers he told me were worse than others, and he added that there was one that he was a bit concerned about, But we would meet that one later the next day. I could not wait.

To describe this area is impossible for me really. I cant think of the adequate words to do so. High mountains, waterfalls, lakes all spectacularly beautiful. The area is mezmorising. I loved it.
Then it was back to the Hotel Leirubakki for the night.

We had dinner at the Hraunyar (sp)Centre.on the way back

The next day we started up Sprengisandur trail. This was amazing. This is the old route, when horses were run fast over the area, and apparently it can be translated as 'bursting sand. '

The route is remote, rough, and beautiful. There are glaciers along the road, and little birds fly everywhere. Árni gave me their name but I have forgotten it. They are pretty little things.We saw brown minks in the lakes, playing around. They are pretty little things The road was very slow driving, and all the way Árni continued to tell stories about outlaws, and what the Icelandic Power Company was doing in this area.
This man works so hard for me, and I am so grateful to him for all his efforts to tell and to show me what he thinks I will be interested in. He is always right in this, and I appreciate him. He is such a warm hearted caring man. I never need to prompt him. he has helped me so much with a book I am writing.

Sprengisandur is barren, and volcanic in appearance. The river crossings are interesting. In some of them the water came up so high, I think I could have touched it and trailed my hand as we crossed. Naturallys to have opened the door, would have flooded the car, and that would not have been nice for its owner.

At one point Árni stopped the car and we got out. he told me to listen, something I do all over Iceland, and he knows it well. There was absolutely nothing to hear. Just the sounds of Silence, - it was beautiful. A few days before he told me we were at the Gates of Hell, well right now I felt like I was in heaven - it was so totally breathtaking. One needs to actually be here to experience this kind of peace. I just hope I can keep it close. There we were, just the two of us and no one around. One just needs to remember to breath

We also stopped at a waterfall, where the walk to the fall was just too steep for me but Árni helped me to the edge of the cliff to look at the fall. I think it was one of his favourites, and it was lovely. Not one that was big or powerful, one that was beautiful. I felt like crying, the wind was so strong, and it was so cold, but I held on to Árni's arm so tightly, while he supported me, and stopped the wind from blowing me off the cliff. Such a very beautiful spot. I have had many moments like this with this person.

Eventually we came to the river that Árni had been worried about. It was just after some mountains huts where we had stopped to use the facilities. It had two flows, and although it did not look all that wide, it was deep. I knew that Árni was concerned. We sat for a short time, and watched it, or I thought that was what he was doing, but a bus turned up, maybe he had seen it, I am not sure, but he said he was going to watch it go through the river. It did and we followed in its path after. I could not understand what he was worried about , but I did sit very quietly, not game even to breath, in case I distracted him. I have learned over years of not being a driver, that it is just best 'to get in, sit down, belt up and then shut up' I took that option, and when I thought it was safe to do so, I considered asking to go around again, as I had done at a previous river, however I remained silent for a time, until I thought it was safe to speak again:-)) But I did not ask to go around again, I was not game enough to do that, in case I got told what I could
do:-))

Then on into Akureyri, and the Hatel Natur for the night. Once again we did not eat here. Árni and I thought it was far too expensive.

We dropped our luggage into our rooms, and drove into town to eat at Bautinn. A really nice little place. Then back to the hotel for the night. I was very restless that night, and I wanted to go for a walk, but I decided against it.

The next morning we went to breakfast. As usual the breakfast are fairly similar in all the Hotels. This one was just the same. Cold meats warm breads , eggs, cheese conserves, tea juices and coffee. All fairly ordinary, filling, and quite Ok.

Then off we went, across the top, and to start our journey back to Reykjavik down the Kjölur.

A completely different scene along this track where Sprengisandur had been volcanic, and barron, this one is a little more vegetated. Less lonely more cars, and more bumpy roads

All along this track it has such beauty, it is rough, and once again no facilities, except mountain huts.

Eventually we came to a spot where there was another hot pool, and mountain hut which was very full. This one has a board walk all the around it, and people are required to stay on the board. People bath in the water, and enjoy the heat which can be easily regulated. We had lunch here and there are facilities to use. There was a great border collie who wanted to play. I was happy to oblige him, but he wanted to play, not with his ball, but with his rock which he carried around in his mouth. All I can say if he does not swallow the rock, his teeth will one day give him major problems. There was also a Icelandic sheepdog Pup, a real little cutie.

Lunch over we contined our journey onward into Reykjavik. More rivers, and more education from Árni. I love the time I spend with him. He has told in the past that he was a teacher when he was younger. I think he still is.

Soon we were back in Reykjavik, and my time with this lovely man was once again coming to a end. On the way he spotted a plant. I had asked him to watch out for the plant Heather. Well he spotted some, and he gave it to me. I took it back to the place where I had been staying. However right at this moment that Guesthouse was way back in time. We had some cake and coffee in the car that we had bought much earlier in the day, and sat together for a bit.

Then back into Reykjavik proper. he roads which lead to the Hotel had been closed for the Culture festival, and it was difficult to get close enough. Siggi from the guesthouse met us and helped me with my luggage. Another most pleasant Icelander. Then it was time to say goodbyes.
This is not the best time in my travels, I hate saying Goodbye!

I had the best time again with this man. We travelled to a most peaceful, albeit a rough place, a rugged place, and it was so beautiful. What an experience. The car behaved and performed well, and the company was wonderful.

A little note to we tourists,

There were a couple of accidents along the tracks. A land Rover defender had come to grief, and overturned. It did not look like it would be going home. I think it died on that spot. A little along a bit further there were two heavy vehicles stuck. One was off road, and stuck down to its under-carriage. Search and rescue, and the police had been called out to both of these problems.

The Icelanders hate it with a passion when tourists drive off road. It is illegal in Iceland and so often tourists just don't care. Off roading leaves big ruts or cuts in the landscape and eventually they fill up with water, and take years to go away. Along the way we encountered some hoons driving off road. My guide stopped our car, and had a 'friendly' chat. I am quite certain, that he wished them a happy day, and safe travelling. However when he retunred to the car I thought I saw steam coming out of his ears:-))))))
Écrit le 5 septembre 2013
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Hugo M
Lisbonne, Portugal571 contributions
5,0 sur 5 bulles
juil. 2013 • Entre amis
Este é um lugar tão estranho e inóspito como bonito. Entramos na estrada de terra batida a seguir á catarata de Gullfoss. E para quem gosta de fotografia, um caminho que demora 4 horas, pode-se tornar em 8 ou 10. A paisagem é espetacular, com desfiladeiros, vistas para os glaciares, certo momento pensamos que estamos na lua.
Uma dica, levem comida e água, não vão encontrar quase nada pelo caminho. Divirtam-se.
Écrit le 4 août 2013
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.

Incartek
Strood, UK858 contributions
3,0 sur 5 bulles
juil. 2012 • En couple
Iceland’s Kjölur Route – (Highway 35) crosses the Highlands from Varmahlíð to Gulfoss (in fact it goes on to Selfoss, but that is back in civilization)
Google Maps shows the two routes from Varmahlíð to Gulfoss
373 km, 4 hours 32 mins Þjóðvegur Hwy 1/36
197 km, 6 hours 39 mins Kjalvegur Hwy 35
The bus takes 3hrs 55mins + stoppage time.
When we booked our car I asked about this route and they ‘recommended’ a 4x4 and said that the road was in good order – even if it was unsealed. We hired a Suzuki Grand Vitara That is far from the truth – in end July it was quite a challenge. Admittedly parts were good – and you could keep going at 100km/hr (speed limit 90) – but there were some very narrow rocky places too. We took 5½ hours – which included a half hour stop at Hveravellir – and some short photo shots. There are several ways to start – we went via the 734 road; probably the right one would have been further west – but this is the way satnav took us. At one point we had to open a gate.
But there were some great views. The scenary became more dramatic when we reached Hveravellir two icefields one either side - Hofsjokull and Langjokull.
Écrit le 31 juillet 2012
Cet avis est l'opinion subjective d'un membre de Tripadvisor et non l'avis de Tripadvisor LLC. Les avis sont soumis à des vérifications de la part de Tripadvisor.
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